Saturday, January 23, 2016

Kashmir - a personal narrative

I am writing this from Srinagar Airport, on the last day of my 3-day visit. I returned to Kashmir after 12 years. My last visit was here in 2003, when Vasuman and I drove down from Leh to Srinagar via Kargil, Dras and the treacherous Zozilla pass. That visit to Leh was incredible in many ways. We had (Chitra with us) travelled from Manali to Leh by rickety public transport bus. But that was not the most painful part of our journey. From a height of 6500 ft we had climbed to Sarchu at 15000 ft on the same day, giving ourselves practically no time to acclimatize to high altitude. All three of us were suffering from headache, lack of appetite and feeling nauseous, and cold, but Chitra faced the brunt. She was so miserable that she was willing to dictate her will, only that I had no strength left to take down the notes. Next day, we crossed the second highest motorable pass, Tangri La at 17500 ft, when even Vasu and I wanted desperately the ordeal to be over, such a splitting headache we had. But soon after crossing, we started descending down, and things started improving, but leaving us totally drained. It was only when we sighted the mighty Indus river (Sindhu) that we had a sense of exhilaration, with fatigue also then retreating. At the crossing, we could even enjoy our cup of tea, with what else but ‘samosa’. But I must reiterate that journey was a new experience in our Himalayan travels. Nowhere in Himalayas, you get to see such changing landscape. From the lush green pine forests to bushes to green meadows, then to the naked mountains, with not even a blade of grass. And the mountains changing so many colours, I now cannot recall all. After staying at Leh, Chitra refused to go with us to Srinagar by road, and preferred to return to Delhi by air. But she was a sport in accompanying us to Khardung La at 18500 ft, the highest motorable road in the world.
Vasu and I carried on to Srinagar by road via Batalik sector, Dras and Kargil. The Kargil war had taken place only four years ago, and we saw huge army presence and big convoys of armored vehicles. We also saw the famous Tiger hill, and experienced a strange feeling when we stayed overnight at Kargil.
2003 was the year, when Kashmir valley was experiencing its first rush of tourists after a gap of many years. The hotels, guest houses, house boats, markets, restaurants, places of tourist interests were full of people from the plains. And we had to wait for long time at STD booths, whenever we wanted to have a long distance call. Kashmir at that time perhaps had no mobile connectivity.  
Over the years, since the start of militancy and ‘liberation movement’ in Kashmir, I have heard many intellectuals, socialists and opinion makers advocating, ‘let the Kashmiris decide, whether they wish to remain with India, or go with Pakistan, or have fully independent state’. Many times I too felt that way. However, after my visit to Kashmir in 2003 and savoring the incredible beauty of its landscape and warmth of people, I now know that we cannot afford the loss of Kashmir. We cannot separate ourselves from Kashmir.
I found this time a marked change among the people in Srinagar from the time of 2003. There was free movement of people everywhere and all the time. There was no obvious army presence in the civilian areas. There were no road barriers or security checks of vehicles etc. Even at late night, the vehicles and people, including women, were moving around freely. However, the floods (sailaab) of last year have taken a heavy toll on the city. Most of the city looks weary, old and colorless. The entire city is in need of major repairs and renovation work. It is here that people are bitter of government’s sloppiness and lack of serious intent on improving the lot of citizens. The relief has not reached needy people, while government says it has spent 1500 crores. It does not require an intelligent guess to know where the money has gone. They are angry over the previous chief minister, who just sat like a nincompoop doing nothing, literally like the proverbial Nero who sat twiddling thumbs while Rome was burning.
The present government keeps on lamenting about lack of ‘central assistance’ for all its incompetence, inefficiency, and corruption. PM Modi had visited Srinagar soon after sailaab and had assured people of ‘achhe din’ and ‘parivartan’, but nothing has been visible on the ground. The people are angry and bitter. Manjoor, who was chaperoning me around, sums it up differently, “this is all ‘Allah ka kahar’, Kashmiris are paying for their own sins; first, they suffered the wrath of militancy, and now this sailaab”. He says, ‘Kashmiris have become lazy and corrupt; they are entrusting all work to the Bihari migrants, and have forgotten the virtue of work and labour. He is not wrong about the work force from Bihar. Most of the hawkers, vendors, and unskilled, semi-skilled and skilled workers are now from Bihar. Even for their traditional and unparalleled skill in shawl and carpet weaving, they are employing outside labour. 
This time I found people much relaxed; they were open about talking of so many of contentious issues. Even if many people were driven by an ideology, they could talk about all the ill effects of militancy of nearly three decades, that militants are nothing but social outcasts, thugs and interested only in making money, and abusing firepower and women. They also state that Kashmir cannot afford to go with a failed state that Pakistan is; it cannot demand a fully autonomous and independent status, when it is surrounded by three nuclear powers. They accept that Kashmir’s destiny is linked with India only.
In last few years, the number of vehicles have grown beyond the capacity of roads. New roads and alternate routes do not exist. A welcome change, however, is the number of women drivers on cars as well as scooty.
One observation has been constant in all my visits to Kashmir, that is, all the governments without exception, have done precious little about the development of Kashmir. We do not tire ourselves of comparing Kashmir with Switzerland, or that ‘if there is a heaven on Earth, it is here, here, and here only’, but what a state we have reduced it to. The state of roads, infrastructure, developmental projects, all are as bad as they were in my earlier visit in 1987. On the name of development, Kashmir has only unplanned hotels and guesthouses and real state to show.
During the Mughal period in particular, Emperor Jahangir and his wife Nur Jahan were so enamoured of Kashmir that during summer they moved to Srinagar with their full court entourage from Delhi at least 13 times. Shalimar Bagh was their imperial summer residence and the Royal Court. They crossed the arduous snowy passes of the Pir Panjal mountain range on elephants to reach Srinagar. The black pavilion built during the early part of Jahangir's reign in the top terrace of the Shalimar Bagh, has the famous inscription in Persian, which says:
Agar Firdaus bar rōy-e zamin ast, hamin ast-o hamin ast-o hamin ast.
This is a couplet by the Persian poet Amir Khusrau,
Translated to English, it means, ‘If there is a paradise on earth, it is here, it is here, it is here’.
It is also mentioned that when Jahangir was asked on his death bed about his cherished desire he is credited to have said, ‘Kashmir, the rest is worthless.’

Sunday, June 28, 2015


Gorkha Earthquake : a personal narrative

“Please return to your seats and fasten your seat belts; we are shortly going to land in Kathmandu; the local time is 2.45 pm, and the temperature is 25 Celsius”. The shrill voice of the airhostess woke me up from my reverie. I was returning to Kathmandu after a year, and for the first time after the devastating earthquake of 25th April. Ever since I visited Kathmandu for the first time in 1995, I fell in love with Nepal and its people. And this love, having been cemented with my stay in Dharan, 1997-1999, has grown over the years. During my short journey from Delhi to Kathmandu, I could not help but thinking with trepidations that in what shape would I find Kathmandu and its people. Though I remained in regular touch with my acquaintances in Kathmandu and Dharan to know their welfare, I knew it would be a different ballgame to see things first hand.

From the window of the aircraft I was hoping to catch a glimpse of the mighty Himalayas, but was disappointed due to the cloud cover. During the check-in at the Delhi airport, I was surprised when the check-in agent asked me if I had any preference for the seat. That meant the flight was not full. Usually Delhi-Kathmandu flights are always full, so one cannot get a seat of choice if not already reserved on web check-in. I always prefer a window seat on the left side, since it allows one to have a peek at the Himalayas. Predictably, a number of seats were not occupied. Tourists are avoiding going there, and for trekkers it has been a big disappointment, since all the popular treks are closed down due to massive landslides that had claimed lives of so many Sherpas and the trekkers. From the aircraft, I could only see buildings after buildings. Each successive year, I find the green cover of the valley shrinking in geometric proportion. The baggage area of the Kathmandu airport had stacks of relief material all over.

After I checked in a hotel in the Thamel, I went for a walk in the area. Thamel is usually a lively area with mostly white tourists (for Indian tourists, the favorite spots remain Pashupatinath temple, casinos, and various malls and shopping areas). The shopping in Thamel is mostly of the trekking gear, and it is littered with restaurants serving cuisines of every part of the world. It also has some very good bakeries, and my love for apple pie began here only. In a decade or so, an additional ‘attraction’ that has been added here is of ‘dance bars’ and ‘massage parlours’. It was disappointing to see the area bereft of its usual crowd. There were virtually no tourists in any of the shops. The eateries wore a deserted look. ‘Hot Bread’, which usually would sell its unsold items of the day at 50% rates at 9.30 pm, was doing so at 8.30 pm.
Prof Saroj Ojha, head, Dept of Psychiatry at the Institute of Medicine, Kathmandu visited me at my hotel with his wife. And after preliminaries, the talk soon shifted to the ‘Gorkha earthquake’. Listen to Prof Ojha in his own words, “We were having lunch with my aged mother and two kids, it being the Saturday, and suddenly felt as if our chairs and the table were pushed by a train engine with a deafening roar. After a momentary hesitation, we realized it was an earthquake, and went underneath the dining table, hoping it would be over within seconds. But the seconds stretched to never ending time. I felt we were pushed and pulled simultaneously in opposite directions, with a force over which we had no control. I was stunned into total silence, remained huddled underneath the table, clutching my two children, while my wife and mother kept chanting prayers all the time. All I could think was death, death, and death; all other thoughts had deserted me; I could not even frame my parting words to my family. Once the violent jerks stopped, it took us a few minutes more to come from underneath the table, which seemed to be providing some security, and we immediately rushed outside into the open area, which seemed to be the safest place on entire Earth. The scene outside was chaotic; no building had fallen down, but the entire neighbourhood had come outside; people were crying, even when none seemed to have died there, shouting, screaming, whispering, some were in total shock; people rushed to me for advice as to what they should do now. What could I tell them; I was as confused as they were. I was totally paralysed, not knowing what to do, should we go back inside, or just run away somewhere. I wanted some divine intervention to suggest to me the safest place on the Earth, where I could head to with my family.” Prof Ojha decided to shift his family to his office in the Institute of Medicine, where he lived with his family for the next one month. It seemed to be the most convenient place; besides his own, IOM is working place for Mrs Ojha too, who is gynaecologist there. Food was available in many canteens within the hospital compound, or from many eateries in the vicinity. In case of any emergency, medical help was available 24 hours. For next few weeks, Prof Saroj Ojha remained in great demand with the TV channels and print media for his advice to people on what should they anticipate, and how they should look after their emotional health, but ‘I myself remained a bundle of nerves within myself; I did not know whom to turn to for advice’. 

Sudhir K Khandelwal
Despatch from Kathmandu

26 June 2015



Thursday, January 29, 2015



I have attended many silver jubilee anniversaries, celebrated golden jubilee marriage anniversary of my parents, and of course participated in many first birthdays, and first anniversaries, but ruby anniversary? I had never attended or even heard of a ruby anniversary of anyone’s birthday or marriage being celebrated. And celebrating Ruby anniversary of a college batch? But that exactly was we bargained for, to celebrate Ruby anniversary of our MAMC batch 1970-74, when during our monthly kitty lunch in December 2013 at the Kwality restaurant, someone reminded that in 2014 we would complete 40 years of our batch. You have to attend one of these lunches to realize what this lunch stands for. For those 90-120 minutes once in a month, we forget who is respected GP in one’s locality, or an accomplished and much sought after consultant, or professor of a premier institution, or an office bearer of a state or national association, or a judge in the consumer redressal forum. We all are there naked (please, don’t take it literally), with no barriers or inhibitions of language or mannerism, and telling and retelling all kinds of jokes, throwing ridiculous ideas and suggestions up in the air, and shooting there only. It is as if for those many minutes we go back in time every month.

However, this time when someone threw up a suggestion of celebrating 40 years of our batch in 2014, people listened seriously. Silver jubilee celebrations had gone back into time, the memories of which were already getting blurred, and golden jubilee was still 10 years away. Who knows what tricks time would play over next 10 years with our health, memory, or even life? When an idea is within the hearing range of Upendra Gami, you better be serious about it, because he will not only make a blueprint for its execution, but would form a team, sell the idea to others, motivate them to join, and would get down to the drawing board for a perfect finale. That was what he did to this idea too. It is not that there were no misgivings; Seekar said in his characteristic style, “naa tel naa kadhai, banane chale mithai”; in fact, he wrote a cheque writing this phrase and sent it to Gami.
But the response, soon after the first email hit the sent button, was overwhelming, more so from our NRI batchmates. So many of them evinced interest, and finally made it too. If Upen et al were working here for the success of the reunion (it was christened Ruby Reunion), Ajit Nagra took the reins for its US operations.

What is to be appreciated, is the perseverance of the team against all odds: batchmates not responding to emails on time, not giving final commitment about attending, not being prompt in coughing up their share of contribution etc. But the team continued to update all those who had expressed interest about the selection of the resort, arrangements for commuting to the venue, detailed programme of activities planned during the stay there.
Chitra suggested the idea of having a dinner on the 18th December as a prelude to the Reunion. That would prepare the batchmates for the emotional reunion that was to unfold on 21-22 December. Batchmates responded in good numbers braving Delhi’s cold and traffic jams, setting the ball roll for the grand finale. As Upen later said, ‘well begun is half done’.

Descriptive epidemiology: finally, 113 people checked into the Best Western Country Club on the morning of 21st December 2014. 65 of these were batchmates from 1970-74 batch, 45 were the spouses of these batchmates, 3 were the daughters of this batch. 47 of these 113 came from overseas, 13 from UK, 2 from Switzerland, and the rest from US.

Meeting many of these batchmates after 40 long years were emotionally charged moments. The batchmates, who had never made any ETEC (eye to eye contact) during their stay at the college, or would not touch the other with a pole, were now greeting others with warm embraces and tight clasping of hands. Every moment was like a photo opportunity, and people obliged one another with photographs multiple times. Ajit Nagra smilingly and untiringly obliged everyone taking multiple shots till the right emotion was captured.
Chitra, Tripat, and Reenu (Mrs Ajit Nagra) had their own reunion; they are school batchmates from Presentation Convent, Delhi.

Poonam et al planned the cultural evenings quite imaginatively. There were some discoveries too. Vimal Sodhi could very well stand up as a historian and bring out old memories from the archive. Ashok Khurana would do very well as stage comedian. Rakesh Sood is not far behind as an improptu comedian, and has a great talent for photography. He would take pains while photographing even a small group, arranging people and the background, adjusting his own posture, and would explain later the composition and texture of the photograph. Ajit Nagra is already perhaps a professional photographer (his photographic gear suggests that); he not only talks about the shutter or aperture, but also of white balance and the compensation, while composing a photo. He takes great pains for a photo to come just right. I am thinking seriously of doing an internship with them (Ajit and Rakesh, please offer a scholarship and free board; your student won’t disappoint you).
We had very interesting meeting with Sudha Jain Khandelwal and her husband Amar Khandelwal. As you would probably know, Khandelwals are a small group of Vaish (baniya) community (unlike Agrawals, which is a very large group), and it is very unlikely to have two khandelwals who do not have some common relatives. And when we were chatting with them, very interesting facts emerged about some common relatives. To cut a long story short, Sudha Jain Khandelwal seemed to develop some identity crisis after some revelations. She cannot decide whether she is my batchmate, or Chitra’s aunt or grandaunt! I do not know how to help her; I usually handle adolescents or young adults if they are going through identity crisis, but have never handled a senior citizen with such a crisis. I am firm believer in this world being very small; in fact wrote a small piece ‘It is a small small small world’ some years ago, and meeting with Sudha and Amar bhai proved it once again.

My special tributes to the spouses of our batchmates for being so generous in taking out time for indulging their better halves. They participated in all activities (singing, dancing, mixing and frolicking with others) with no reservations, and were complimentary to their partners. Like one said, “Many years ago I made a very wise decision in my marriage; now I live off of my wife’s income”. 

Batchmates were overwhelmed by the warmth and bonhomie that came so spontaneously. They were effusive in complimenting the team for its organizing this event.
Titiksha summed it up so well, “Each detail looked into, every one made to feel special & precious, death dealt with delicacy & respect shows the compassionate loving hearts & selfless efforts of all the core group members of 74 batch who could make it possible because of the loving support of their spouses & family.  We feel very fortunate to be a part of this spirited, unique group”.

This reunion took place 15 years after the last, which was the silver jubilee reunion. Someone has already suggested that next one should be earlier this time, after 5 years. Let us hope, we meet up again after 5 years in greater numbers.
Till that time, enjoy fresh air, lot of laughters, plenty of exercises, and frequent social interactions. That will keep the batteries charged.


Sudhir Khandelwal

Wednesday, December 3, 2014

Chopta - Tungnath - Chandrashila Trek

Five days of holidays in the beginning of October was god-sent for many people to make a beeline into their favourite destinations; we too planned to make best of this golden opportunity, since it does not happen very often that one gets constellation of holidays falling together. If I have to plan, what better place than go for a quick visit to the Himalayas in Uttarakhand. Chopta and Tungnath had been in my mind for a long time. I made enquiries and found this was a doable trip in five days. Vasu, after some hesitation, agreed to accompany me, and then I asked Shariff, who approved the plan (of course, after consulting Malini) without hestitation. What bothered me was the road condition. After last year’s devastation due to fury of floods in Uttarakhand, esp, in the region of Kedarnath, I was a little wary, since Chopta and Tungnath fall in the close vicinity of Kedarnath; afterall, Tungnath is one of five Kedar temples. I contacted GMVN’s offices in Rishikesh and other places to get the updates. They all assured me that people were going regulary to Kedarnath and other dhams (Badrinath, Gangotri and Yamunotri), and in the first week of October, with rains almost stopping, there was no risk of fresh landslide. I must say one thing about the GMVN, they are sure to respond once you ring them up. Finally I could also track one medical officer from Haldwani, who had just returned from Kedarnath after spending some time in a medical camp. He confirmed roads were decent enough, and some rough patches here and there were part of the journey in the mountains.
The route to Chopta-Tungnath-Chadrshila goes like this: Delhi-Haridwar-Rishikesh-Devprayag-Shrinagar-Rudraprayag-Ukhimath-Chopta. It is the same route till Rudrapryag that goes further to Joshimath, Govind-ghat (for trek to Valley of Flowers and Hemkunt Sahib) and then Badrinath. At Rudraprayag, you take a left U-turn to go towards Kedarnath, and before Guptkashi, turn towards Ukhimath and Chopta.
Something about the legend of ‘Panch-Kedar’, since there are five Kedar (Lord Shiv) temples in that region: Kedarnath, Tungnath, Madhyamaheshwar, Rudranath and Kalpeshwar. The legend goes like this: after the Mahabharat war, Pandav brothers felt extreme remorse and guilt over the kilings of their own brothers and other kinsmen, Guru, and many great warriors. They were advised to seek penance from Lord Shiv, who was very angry with them and unforgiving. In their quest, they reached Mount Kailash, but Shiv disappeared from there. They could trace him to Garhwal Himalayas, where to dodge them, Shiv assumes the form of a male buffalow and joins a herd. Pandav brothers recognize him and try to capture him, but Shiv disintegrates himself in five parts, but Pandavs catch hold of his back and worship him for penance. Shiv is satisfied with their devotion and repentence, and finally grants them pardon. Each temple signifies one of the five body parts.
On our first day, we left home after doing Durga-ashtami puja, since it was Durga Ashtami that day. We aimed to reach Shrinagar on our first day, though I was a bit apprehensive about the road condition after Rishikesh when hills begin. But the problem was exiting NCR only. It took nearly two hours to cross Ghaziabad. At Khatauli, we stopped for tea; the well-known Chital Grand does not exist anymore at its original site. It was known for its efficiency, standard of cleanliness, and very rich greenery and landscape. We went to one of its clones, which has a long way to go to come near Chital. We did not stop at Haridwar, as we wanted to reach our next destination on time. We crossed Shivpuri, known for river rafting, where the entire stretch was full of parked cars. The Dilliwalas had made good use of this long weekend; I cannot complain, we had done the same. The road condition was not as bad as I had feared except for some stretches. We thought of Devprayag for our overnight stay, but then Shrinagar was not far off, so we decided to continue. We had covered almost 340 km. Shrinagar is an important halt on this route for going to Kedarnath (via Rudraprayag), Hemkunt Sahib and Valley of Flowers, and Badrinath (via Joshimath). It is home to the Garhwal University and now has a medical college too. One could still see some signs of fury of floods last year.
On second day, we had planned to reach Chopta via Rudraprayag, Agustmuni and Ukhimath at a distance of 60 km. We had been recommended to stay at Syalsur guest house of the GMVN for the beauty of all the landscape around it. However, this guest house was washed away in last year’s floods, and the repair/construction was not yet complete. On this stretch, new road has been laid, and the drive was a pleasure, with a fantastic view of moutnains and tall trees all around. The river, terraced fields and mountain peaks made all the efforts worthwhile. The air was refreshing, and I inhaled deeply to clear my clogged alveoli of all the pollutants accumulated over last few months in Delhi. At Duggalbitta, a few kilometers before Chopta, we got down from our vehicle to stretch our legs and give ourselves some practice to walk at an altitude of 9000 ft in preparation for tomorrow’s trek, which was to take us to 13,500 ft. From Duggalbitta to Chopta via Baniyakund, the entire area is a huge meadow (bugyal), and offers huge opportunity for camping. Now a days a number of corporates organize for their young executives such camps where they get some exposure to excitement of adventure and group living. The village of Chopta is spread over a largish area and is sparsely populated. The centre of the village, where all the tourists assemble, is a stretch of less than 1 km with eating and staying places located on either side of the road. At this time, the entire stretch was jam packed with cars and motorcycles, and the eating places were full of noisy tourists. Majority of the tourists were young people, and it seemed as if the profile of pilgrims had changed from elderly group to younger crowd. It looked like as if the younger lot had descended (or ascended) to Chopta instead to a mall. Since the staying places were limited, we hurried to book our rooms before settling down to anythingelse. The evening brought sudden fall in the temperature, and with limited lighting options, tourists and pilgrims had to retire early into their beds. At dinner we met with a very interesting couple from, wherelse, but Kolkata. The gentleman had almost taken upon himself the task of popularizing soya in India almost with a missionary zeal. He explained to us in great details how and in what form soya has to be consumed to be useful to human system. We at our home consume soya by mixing soya flour in wheat flour, but that is not the best way. Could not sleep very well, may be because of altitude, or due to anxiety of next day’s trek.
We had planned to stay overnight at Tungnath for our 3rd night’s stay and tried to book some room in advance; however, we were told all the accommodation were taken up already, and the place was looking more like a railway platform. In the morning, we left early; we were to walk about 4 km and gain a height to nearly 3500 ft, making it a steep climb. I gave myself 3 hrs for this trek; I was a bit anxious, so maintained a slow but steady rhythm for my climb. The tree line was thinning all the way up; there were pine, oak, rhodendrone and birch trees. But all disappeared as we gained height. It was cloudy, so could not have a clear view of the peaks. We reached within time; and after having darshan, we headed for Chandrashila peak at a height of 13,500 ft.

People usually go to Chandrashila early in the morning for a sunrise, when all the peaks bask in the golden sun. One can have a 270 degree view all around. But it was a cloudy day since early morning, so did not have a clear view of the peaks.
After climbing down, we headed for Ukhimath, where we had decided to stay overnight. I had already tried the GMVN guest house telephonically, and there was no vacancy. We tried the PWD guest house; mostly these are located at a place from where one can see a good view of the landscape, and secondly they charge very reasonable rates. At Ukhimath, all the rooms were vacant, but the caretaker was one of the laziest persons around, and when we saw the condition of one room, we could not believe one could maintain a room in such a filthy condition. It appeared straight from a horror movie. But we got good rooms in a private hotel, which was situated on main road. The rooms were clean, nice beds, and running hot water. Ukhimath is a small town with Shri Omkarnath temple where Bhagwan Kedarnath makes a temporary abode when the Kedarnath shrine closes on the Diwali day for the winter season. It is in Ukhimath that the Lord is worshipped through the winters.
Next day after a good night rest and hot water bath and a breakfast of hot puri-aloo subji, we headed for Devria Taal. We parked our car at Sari village, from where it is a moderately steep trek of about 3 km. The trek passes through a temple and dense forest. The lake is famous for its view and the reflections of sunset and surrounding peaks like Chowkhambha. There is tented accommodation available, and if one is inclined, it is a quiet and serene place for overnight stay. We spent couple of hours amidst a noisy group of tourists, who were neither aware of PM’s appeal of ‘swachch Bharat’, nor respectful to the sanctity of Himalayas. We left for Rishikesh and reached there soon after sunset.
Fifth day was our last day of journey. We headed for home, but not before taking a dip in the Ganga. We were happy we could accomplish a visit to Chopta, Tungnath and Chandrashila in the given time. This is again one of the many destinations in the Himalayas where one would like to go again.

Some important telephone numbers:
GMVN Delhi – 011-23326620
GMVN Rishikesh – 0135-2431793
GMVN Dehradun – 0135-2740896
GMVN Joshimath – 01389-222118
GMVN Badrinath – 01381-222212